Wine Epiphany

Each of us wine lovers has had at least one "Wine Epiphany," where you suddenly "get" what wine is all about. For me, it was on Thursday, March 9, 1989, at Jean-Louis at the Watergate in Washington, DC. It was the "Graves Tasting Tour & Dinner with Jean-Louis" sponsored by Les Amis du Vin (the storied wine tasting group that warrants a post all its own!).

For those of you who don't know Jean-Louis Palladin, here's a little background from the Jean-Louis Palladin Foundation:

"In 1974, at 28 yrs old, Jean-Louis won 2 Michelin stars for his restaurant Tables Des Cordeliers in Gascony, France. At the time he was the youngest chef to have won 2 stars.

Always seeking a new challenge, in 1979 he came to America to open Jean-Louis at The Watergate, in the Watergate Hotel, Washington, DC.

He found little that was similar to the ingredients he knew in France and certainly few well trained cooks and servers. He plowed ahead with passion and fortitude."

The dinner was eight courses, paired with sixteen wines, all from the Graves region. My memory tells me they were all white wines, but it was so long ago and I was so new to wine that I am probably mistaken (if anybody reading this was at the dinner, please let me know). I have the menu and the actual fax registration form for the dinner, but of course there is no mention of the style of the wines, red or white.

The price was $160! A king's ransom for me at the time (and still rather pricey). But if the dinner were held today, I would guess it would cost at least $350. At the time I was a young database administrator, working at Coopers & Lybrand at an annual salary of $18K. The suggested attire was formal, and the dinner was limited to 60 people. We sat at round tables for 8, as I recall, and seated at each table was a representative from one of the chateaux. I was seated next to the representative of Domaine de Chevalier. He was about 60 years old and spoke no English, and my French was and is limited. But he was charming and was charmed, I think, by me.

The entire meal was sublime. Anybody who had the pleasure of tasting Jean-Louis' culinary creations will understand what I mean when I say that it was the best meal I had ever had up until that time, and even now it ranks in my memory among my top ten best meals.

But the one course that I still remember to this day is the sixth course:

Milk-fed Leg of Lamb in essence of Black Olives, Celery Root Mousseline
paired with Domaine de Chevalier 1976 and Chateau Haut-Bailly 1979

It's not the Leg of Lamb that I recall. No, when I tasted the silky, earthy, rich celery root puree paired with the herbaceous, flinty Domaine de Chevalier, it was truly an epiphany for me. It was at that moment that I truly understood what wine is all about. It's not about having an alcoholic beverage, it's not about having something to wash down your meal with, it's not even about how good a wine can be on its own. No, at that moment I understood that wine is meant to enhance a meal, and no matter how good a meal is, it's not complete without wine.

I believe that one experience has to this day influenced my approach to selecting from a restaurant menu. Before I even look at the menu, I study the wine list and see if there's anything interesting that I want to try. Then I look at the menu to find something that will go well with the wine. But I'm not really interested in whether there is steak or fish or lamb or chicken on the menu. No, for me the most interesting part of the menu is the side dishes, sauces and accompaniments. I look for polenta, mushrooms, grits, lentils, sweet potato, scalloped potatoes, risotto, barley, turnips, parsnips, beets...or celery root puree. I go back and forth from the wine list to the menu, until I find the "perfect" pairing.

So, that's my Wine Epiphany. Do you want to share yours?

Tasting etiquette at large, crowded walk-around tastings

I attend many so-called "walk-around" tastings and there are a few things that really annoy me about this type of event. This is one of my pet peeves: People who get a sample of wine to taste, and then just stand there tasting the wine and chatting with the person pouring the wines. If we all did that, nobody would have a chance to taste more than a mere fraction of the wines. When you are at a tasting where there are dozens or hundreds of wines being poured, don't just stand there; get out of the way so somebody else can taste some wines. You can do your learning and evaluation of the wine away from the table.

Here's how to do it properly: walk up to the table, and when it's "your turn," get the sample of wine, find out what it is, and ask one or two very quick questions. Then say thank you and step back away from the table so somebody else can get a taste. Depending on how quickly you are tasting, you should either stand clear of any tasting tables, or stand close but not so close that somebody else can't get in the queue. When you are ready to taste again, just repeat this process.

How to deal with the table monopolizers: stand behind them, stick out your tasting glass, and shout to be heard. The ones being rude will probably look back at you as if you are the rude one. Just smile and say, "Excuse me, I'm just trying to get a sample." When you get your sample, say "Thanks" and step away. Do this often enough, and they'll get the hint. If they don't, just elbow your way in and ignore them.

And you guys who are doing the pouring of the samples, you are just as guilty. What's the proper way? Look up and acknowledge anybody who is standing on the "second line" of tasters. Pour a taste over the heads or between the shoulders of people rude enough not to step back when they have received a taste. A good "pourer" will develop a little patter on each wine, and will be able to serve many people standing around the table, not just the ones right in front.

That's my biggest complaint about this type of event. What's yours?

Picnics, parks and wine

Today I attended an invitation-only picnic at a city-owned park. I was told when I accepted the invitation that alcoholic beverages are not allowed in the park. I was disappointed, but I went anyway. It's a beautiful day, the first full day of summer, and the weather is sunny and hot. A nice chilled rosé would have gone nicely with my hot dog and tomato and olive tapenade salad.

It's legal for adults to consume alcohol in this country. Why is it OK to ban alcohol in public parks? Why is this policy not challenged? There are already enough restrictions on when and where I can consume wine (see my previous post below about MADD). Do we really need another? There are laws against public drunkenness, against driving while impaired, and many other such laws; aren't they sufficient? Why can't I have a nice serving or two of wine when I'm at a picnic or a concert in the park?

I contend that there is no need for such laws and restrictions. If somebody consumes too much alcohol and is openly and noticeably drunk, then laws are in place whereby that person can and should be arrested. But let me enjoy some light and fruity Beaujolais with my curried chicken salad while I listen to some good live music in the park. I promise you won't even notice that I'm drinking wine...